Kohei Nito

Learn Sake

Have you ever seen the notation “〇〇BY” on a sake label? For example, “2020BY” or “30BY”—a number followed by “BY.” This small detail actually reveals a lot about the sake itself. Even if the name of the sake is the same, a different BY number can mean a noticeable difference in flavor. In this article, we’ll take a closer look at what “BY” stands for, how to read it, and how you can use it to better enjoy and choose your sake.

What Does “BY” Mean on a Sake Label? Understanding the Brewery Year in Japanese Sake

Sake Street Editorial Team

Sakagura

Inoue Seikichi Shoten, located in Utsunomiya City, Tochigi Prefecture, is the brewery behind Sawahime. The brewery has twice won the Champion Sake award—the highest honor in the IWC (International Wine Challenge) Sake Division—in 2010 and 2022. In the 17-year history of the IWC Sake Division, only two breweries have achieved this remarkable feat: Dewazakura Sake Brewery of Yamagata and Inoue Seikichi Shoten.  Led by brewery owner Hiroshi Inoue, Inoue Seikichi Shoten is also a frequent gold medal winner at Annual Japan Sake Awards. After becoming president in 2013, Inoue entrusted the role of toji (master brewer) to the younger Tamotsu Sato, yet he still personally oversees the care of the koji—the heart of sake brewing.  With a determination to create the ideal koji and an uncompromising approach to quality, Inoue Seikichi Shoten continues to refine its craft. We visited the brewery to see firsthand the passion and precision that drive their sake making. 

Twice Crowned at the IWC: How Sawahime from Tochigi Crafts Sake Without Compromise

New Trends in the Sake Industry

As global climate change accelerates, heat damage to rice has become an increasingly serious issue for Japan’s sake industry. In the first part of SAKE Street’s special series, “Sake Under Heat,” we examined how rising temperatures are affecting Japan’s rice crops and summarized the measures that both farmers and breweries can take to mitigate the impact.  In response to ongoing temperature increases, research into heat-tolerant rice varieties—both for table rice and sake rice—has advanced rapidly in recent years. Yet, as discussed in the previous installment, some brewers view the introduction of new rice varieties as risky, often preferring to adjust their brewing techniques rather than switch to unfamiliar rice.  In this second part, we explore the potential of these heat-resistant sake rice varieties as a long-term adaptation strategy to climate change. We begin with insights from Numata, a sake rice farmer in Shimane, who also works as a licensed master brewer during the winter season and contributes regularly to SAKE Street. Speaking from the dual perspectives of both farmer and brewer, he shares the challenges visible from each side.  We then turn to Yamagata Prefecture, introducing a successful example of local collaboration in developing new rice varieties. Through their case, we consider what kinds of coordinated, nationwide efforts might be necessary to safeguard the future of sake production in a warming world.

Sake Under Heat (2): Can New Rice Varieties Be the Savior of Sake?

Sake kasu, or sake lees, is produced during the sake brewing process. Traditionally, kasu was used in everyday cooking in Japanese homes, but in recent years, while disposal has become a problem due to decreasing demand,  it is now becoming popular again due to  its high nutritional value.  One person who loves sake kasu more than anyone else is Mari Shimura, a.k.a. Sake Kasuko. She is a certified nutritionist and is currently enrolled in the doctoral course of Niigata University's graduate school's sake studies program.  According to her, sake kasu is as diverse and enjoyable as sake! She talked to us about its use.

The Secrets of Sake Kasu: Expert Guides on Everything from Flavor Types to Use and Storage Methods

Born in Nagano Prefecture, Kinmon-nishiki is a sake rice variety that was safeguarded for nearly two decades through exclusive contract cultivation by Fukumitsuya, a brewery in Ishikawa Prefecture. In recent years, it has gained renewed attention as breweries across Nagano have begun using it widely, marking its revival. In this article, we’ll take a closer look at Kinmon-nishiki—its characteristics, lineage, and regions of production.

Genealogy of Kinmon-nishiki: The Sake Rice Born in Nagano and Preserved in Ishikawa

According to the Japan Meteorological Agency, the nation’s average temperature in 2024 reached an all-time high, with unprecedented heatwaves observed across the archipelago. In recent years, such extreme temperatures have been exerting wide-ranging effects on the natural environment—and on agriculture in particular.  Rice, the essential ingredient for sake, has been no exception. Increasing reports of so-called “heat damage”—growth disorders caused by elevated temperatures—have sparked concern among both farmers and brewers. In fact, climate change was one of the factors behind the decision of Michizakura Shuzo, once based in Gifu Prefecture, to relocate its brewery to Hokkaido.  How, then, is climate change shaping the future of sake production? And what strategies can be adopted to meet these challenges? In this series, Sake Under Heat, we draw on data and interviews with farmers and brewers to explore how a warming climate is transforming sake rice—and the sake industry itself.

Sake Under Heat: How Climate Change Is Transforming Rice Cultivation and Brewing (1-2)

When poured into a glass, sake appears clear and transparent. This pristine look has been prized since the Manyo era (the 7th–8th century, the time of Japan’s oldest poetry anthology Manyoshu), when it was referred to as sumizake (“clear sake”) and valued as a mark of quality.  Although sake is made from nothing more than water, rice, rice koji and yeast, before it is finished it looks more like a thick rice porridge. So why is the sake we drink transparent? And how does it differ from those that have a faint greenish tint or a light cloudiness, such as origarami sake?  In this article, we’ll walk through the process of how sake transforms from the moromi mash into the beautifully clear drink we enjoy today.

Why Sake Looks Clear: Learning the Process from Pressing to Bottling

In the world of sake brewing, it’s now widely recognized that rice plays a central role. From media coverage to fan discussions, topics like polishing ratios frequently come up, and the image of freshly steamed rice has become an iconic symbol of the sake-making process.  Yet nestled between polishing and steaming are two lesser-known but critically important steps: senmai (washing) and shinseki (soaking). Washing is essential for removing the  nuka or rice powder left behind after polishing, while soaking controls the rice’s water absorption—a key factor in determining the quality of the steamed rice and ultimately the koji. Though they may seem like straightforward tasks—washing rice and soaking it in water—these steps have a profound impact on the final character of the sake. In this article, we take a closer look at the purpose and techniques behind senmai and shinseki, two subtle but vital processes in sake brewing.

Learn about Rice Washing and Soaking in Sake Brewing: Summary of Methods, Purposes, and Precautions

Tamasakae is a distinctive sake rice variety that, despite its limitations—particularly its unsuitability for highly polished ginjo-style brews—continues to captivate fans with the rich depth and umami it brings to sake. Its bold character has made it a favorite among certain brewers and connoisseurs alike. What makes Tamasakae so appealing to this devoted following? In this feature, we explore the unique traits, lineage, and growing regions of this singular sake rice.

Genealogy of Tamasakae: Discover the Rice Behind the Bold, Rich Sake

Toshi

Rice, which is the raw ingredient for sake, contains starch. While starch is the source of sugar, it in itself does not contain any sugar. Therefore, another ingredient, koji, is indispensable for sake brewing, allowing the production of alcohol from rice.

Koji, the main character in sake brewing! The process and how it gives sake its qualities

Are you familiar with "kijoshu"? A type of Japanese sake, it can be increasingly spotted on restaurant menus or lining the shelves of liquor stores. Kijoshu* is a sake with a rich sweetness and elegance. Thick yet sophisticated, it offers an allure to be enjoyed different from generic sake. Here, we will see the definition and history of kijoshu, how it is processed, and the characteristics of its taste. At the end we also have some ideas for pairing which we hope will get you started.

Rich sweet dessert sake!  Learn about the manufacturing method and tastes of "kijoshu"

Nobuyuki Kubota

Most people know that sake is made from rice and water but what about the actual process? When you know how sake is made, you will be able to better enjoy it as you have an increased appreciation for the various methods to get it to taste the way it does. The exact process of brewing sake differs from brewery to brewery but I will illustrate here the general process.

How is Japanese sake made?

Within sake making, there is the step of making "shubo". As the adage "First koji, then moto, and lastly tsukuri" highlights, the second most important element of sake making is this "moto" which is just another name for shubo or yeast starter. Depending on the type of shubo, the process is slightly different, each giving the resulting sake a unique taste and aroma which we will explore.

Demystifying the shubo in sake

Sake & Health

Often heard that they don’t drink sake because it makes them fat. It is true that Japanese sake is sweeter compared to other alcohol and perhaps the fact that it is made from rice gives it this image. But is this really the case? For us who drink nothing but sake, this is a crucial matter and definitely worth investigating.

Is it true that Japanese sake makes you fat?

Ever seen the words 'polishing ratio xx %' written on a sake bottle? The polishing ratio greatly affects the taste and aroma of sake. It also affects whether you are permitted to call the sake certain names such as 'Junmai Daiginjo' and 'Ginjo'. By understanding the polishing ratio, you will be able to better understand the sake that you choose, so let's take a look!

What is the "Polishing Ratio" often seen on Japanese Sake?

One unique characteristic of Japanese sake compared to wine or beer is that it can be enjoyed at a wider range of temperatures. Changing the temperature even slightly can alter the aroma and taste, and therefore the same sake can be joined in multiple ways depending on your mood! At the same time, if you have it at the wrong temperature it can also ruin the sake, killing the very features that make it! Here I will be sharing with you how sake changes at different temperatures as well as how to select a suitable temperature according to the type of sake.

Hot or cold? The perfect temperature for your sake

What are the ingredients of sake? What would be your answer to the question? Many might wonder what else than rice? Or, those who are extremely knowledgeable might wonder how much detail they should include. In this article, we cover what ingredients constitute sake.