Genealogy of Tamasakae: Discover the Rice Behind the Bold, Rich Sake

Tamasakae is a distinctive sake rice variety that, despite its limitations—particularly its unsuitability for highly polished ginjo-style brews—continues to captivate fans with the rich depth and umami it brings to sake. Its bold character has made it a favorite among certain brewers and connoisseurs alike. What makes Tamasakae so appealing to this devoted following? In this feature, we explore the unique traits, lineage, and growing regions of this singular sake rice.

What is Tamasakae?

Large Grains, Low Shinpaku Expression

While Tamasakae boasts impressively large grains—comparable to, or even larger than, those of the renowned Yamadanishiki—it has a relatively low rate of shinpaku (starchy white core) development. Moreover, its tendency to develop internal cracks, known as dōware, makes it prone to breaking during the polishing process. These characteristics make Tamasakae less suited for highly polished styles like ginjo and daiginjo.

Suitable for lower-polished styles

Although Tamasakae is rarely used in ginjo-grade sake due to its low shinpaku expression, it offers high yields and relatively good solubility during fermentation—traits that make it well-suited for styles like honjozo and junmai.

It is particularly favored by breweries in its primary growing regions, such as Shiga and Tottori Prefectures, many of which specialize in aged sake. Sake made with Tamasakae tends to have a clean finish, while its distinctive depth of flavor is thought to respond especially well to maturation.

Harvest Timing a Challenge

One of the key challenges in cultivating Tamasakae lies in pinpointing the optimal harvest window. If the timing is off, the rice becomes more prone to dō-ware—internal cracking of the grain. This cracking can lead to breakage during polishing, resulting in lower yields and potential negative effects on the aroma and flavor of the final sake.

Genealogy of Tamasakae

Tamasakae was first developed in 1954 at the Aichi Prefectural Agricultural Research Center through the crossbreeding of Shiragiku and Yama-Sakae, and was officially named in 1965. One of its parents, Shiragiku, traces its lineage back to Omachi—one of the most revered heritage sake rice varieties among enthusiasts.

Tamasakae also plays a role in the genealogy of later sake rice strains. One notable descendant is Hitogokochi, a variety now widely used in Nagano Prefecture. Hitogokochi was developed from Shirotaenishiki, itself a cross between Tamasakae—known for its large grain size—and Kuzuryu, a variety prized for its brewing suitability. Shirotaenishiki was then crossed with Shinkō 444, a variety related to the famed table rice Koshihikari.

Hitogokochi inherits the large grain size of Tamasakae, the high shinpaku expression and brewing qualities of Kuzuryu, and the cultivation strengths of Koshihikari. Today, it stands as one of the signature sake rice varieties of Nagano.

Main Production Area of Tamasakae

Shiga

ne of the key regions where Tamasakae is cultivated is Shiga Prefecture. At the heart of Shiga lies Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake, surrounded by expansive plains nourished by pure subterranean streams flowing from the surrounding mountains. These ideal conditions have long supported the cultivation of a wide range of rice varieties—including table rice, glutinous rice, and premium sake rice.

Thanks to this abundant natural environment, rice grown in Shiga is collectively known as Omi-mai (Omi rice), a regional brand name that reflects the area’s reputation for quality and diversity in rice production.

Tottori

In addition to Shiga, Tamasakae is also cultivated in Tottori Prefecture—a region blessed with abundant natural resources. Crystal-clear streams flow from the Chugoku Mountains down to the Sea of Japan, creating ideal conditions for rice cultivation. Tottori has long been known for producing high-quality rice, and its unique topography, including stepped terraces, is put to good use in growing sake rice.

For example, in Kotoura Town in Tohaku District, sake rice farmers strategically plant different varieties based on elevation. In the warmer lower terraces, they grow Yamadanishiki, while the cooler upper terraces are reserved for Tamasakae. Each field is managed carefully to match the rice variety to the microclimate and soil conditions, with harvesting done in a way that prevents intermixing—ensuring both purity and quality in the final product.

Summary

In this feature, we've explored the characteristics, lineage, and growing regions of Tamasakae. While its large grain size might suggest suitability for highly polished sake, its low shinpaku expression means it is rarely used in ginjo or daiginjo styles. Instead, thanks to its high yields and ability to produce sake with depth and umami, it has become a popular choice for honjozo and junmai expressions.

With its distinctive richness and flavor—especially appealing to fans of aged sake—Tamasakae continues to capture the hearts of devoted drinkers. If you haven’t experienced it yet, this unique sake rice is well worth seeking out.

References

• Shiga Prefectural Government, Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. Delicious Shiga Collection | Regional Report | Sake Rice. Accessed July 22, 2025.
• National Agriculture and Food Research Organization (NARO). Rice Varieties and Traits Database. Accessed July 22, 2025.
• National Agriculture and Food Research Organization (NARO). New Sake Rice Variety: Ginfubuki. Accessed July 22, 2025.
• Shiga Prefecture. Overview of Recommended Varietal Characteristics. Accessed July 22, 2025.