Sparkling Sake: Learn about the Production Process and History

Sparkling sake has become a popular beverage in recent years, celebrated for its crisp, effervescent sensation. With a growing selection of fruity, low-alcohol varieties, this category has captured the attention of both domestic and international consumers. Sparkling sake’s accessibility in supermarkets and retail outlets worldwide has further broadened its appeal, offering a refreshing option for a diverse range of palates.

As more breweries embrace the production of sparkling sake, the question arises: how did this unique category develop, and what has driven its growing global appeal? In this article, we delve into the production methods, the history of sparkling sake, and highlight some must-try products for the international market.

Types of sparkling sake

Sparkling sake can be broadly categorized into two types, based on the method of carbon dioxide production: the carbonated gas-injected type and the secondary fermentation in-bottle type. Each method imparts distinct characteristics to the sake, influencing both its flavor profile and texture.

Carbonated gas-injected type

The carbonated gas-injected type of sparkling sake is made by injecting carbon dioxide into fully fermented sake, a process similar to that used for commercially available carbonated beverages, like soda water.

One of the key advantages of this method is its flexibility. Brewers can choose any type of base sake and adjust the level of carbonation, enabling a wide variety of product styles. Additionally, maintaining consistent quality is easier with this method, and it simplifies production management, as it eliminates the need for steps like low-temperature pasteurization after bottling.

However, even when the base sake is a specific type, such as ginjo or junmai, the addition of carbon dioxide means it cannot be legally classified as tokutei meisho-shu (premium sake). Instead, the ingredients label must list carbonic acid or carbon dioxide gas.

Secondary fermentation in-bottle type

Bottle-fermented sparkling sake is made by utilizing the carbon dioxide naturally produced during yeast's alcoholic fermentation. This process fully integrates the carbon dioxide into the sake, creating fine, delicate bubbles. The term "bottle-fermented" is inspired by the method used in sparkling wine production, although secondary fermentation can also take place in tanks, not exclusively in bottles.

When secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, the sake initially contains lees (yeast sediment). Recently, the "degorgement (*) " technique, borrowed from champagne production, has been introduced to remove the lees, resulting in clear, bottle-fermented sparkling sake. Similarly, in cases where secondary fermentation takes place in tanks, clarity is achieved by filtering out the lees.

(*)Degorgement: The process of removing lees that have collected at the neck of the bottle.

Another type of sake that undergoes secondary fermentation in the bottle is known as "kassei nigori", or "active nigori." This sake is bottled with live yeast cells, following a coarse filtration process and without undergoing pasteurization.

If you've experienced kassei nigori before, you may recall the characteristic fizz upon opening the bottle. This is due to the active fermentation taking place inside the bottle, where carbon dioxide gas accumulates as a result of the yeast's ongoing activity. Recent advancements in cold-chain logistics have made it easier to enjoy this sake at home, yet it remains highly sensitive to temperature fluctuations and physical impact. If exposed to excessive heat or strong shocks, there's a risk of the bottle cap popping off or, in extreme cases, the bottle itself may burst.

Because live yeast remains in the bottle, controlling the fermentation process can be challenging, making the quality of kassei nigori highly variable depending on the storage conditions and brewing techniques. This difficulty in maintaining consistent quality poses challenges not only for liquor retailers but also throughout the logistics chain and once the sake reaches consumers.

History of sparkling sake

As the production methods for sparkling sake have become more standardized, it has become increasingly common to see these products on store shelves. But how did this category emerge, and what factors contributed to its growing popularity?

The path from development to commercialization

In 1920, the Brewing Laboratory Report No. 82, published by what is now the National Research Institute of Brewing (NRIB), featured a report by engineer Sato Hisae on the production of "effervescent beverages." This research explored creating a champagne-like effervescence in sake by dissolving carbon dioxide gas and sugar.

In 1934, brewing scientist Fumio Nakajima applied for a patent for a method of producing sake, or sake substitutes, using secondary fermentation in the bottle.

By 1939, a sparkling sake based on traditional Japanese sake was launched in Hawaii, even before its debut in Japan. The "Polo Champion," developed by the Honolulu Brewing and Ice Company, which pioneered sake brewing overseas, was a sparkling sake made by adding small amounts of wine, flavoring, and carbon dioxide to Japanese sake.

Although the Honolulu Brewing and Ice Company had to halt production of Polo Champion due to the outbreak of World War II, they later introduced Polynesian Champion for the U.S. mainland market after the war. This sake-based beverage incorporated pineapple and other flavors along with carbon dioxide, modeled after champagne. While it was praised for its flavor, it struggled to achieve commercial success.

Popularization in Japan

Following the enactment of the Liquor Tax Law, the first sparkling sake in Japan was launched in 1964. Masuda Tokubee Shoten, a renowned brewery in Kyoto, introduced "Tsuki no Katsura Dai-gokujo Nakagumi Nigori Sake", marking the birth of sparkling nigori sake, with carbon dioxide naturally dissolved through yeast fermentation.

In 1968, several sake breweries collaborated to release a carbonated first-grade sake called "Punch Mate". Punch Mate was a carbonated sake of the gas-injected type, marketed as a low-alcohol, sparkling soft sake.

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Later in 1998, Ichinokura Brewery in Miyagi Prefecture pioneered the development of a low-alcohol sparkling sake produced through secondary fermentation in the bottle, launching "Ichinokura Suzune". This bottle-fermented sparkling sake had a slightly cloudy appearance, similar to light snow, as a result of blending a small amount of nigori sake with the low-alcohol base.

When "Suzune" first hit the market, sparkling sake was not yet widely recognized, with only one store in Miyagi Prefecture carrying it, and just 20 stores nationwide. However, around 1999, the sake gained significant attention after being featured on a television program, sparking a wave of interest that helped popularize sparkling sake across Japan.

Development and diversification of technology

Since the release of Suzune, various sparkling sakes have been researched and developed in tandem with advancements in sake brewing technology.

In 2008, Nagai Shuzo (Gunma Prefecture) launched MIZUBASHO PURE, Japan’s first sparkling sake to feature secondary fermentation in the bottle, producing a completely clear liquid. The development process took 10 years of planning and hundreds of trial-and-error attempts, culminating in the acquisition of a patent for the production technology.

As international interest in sparkling sake has grown, efforts to improve quality and promote its spread have also gained momentum.

In 2016, the Awa Sake Association was established. Sparkling sakes that meet strict criteria—such as containing only carbon dioxide produced naturally during fermentation and being clear—are certified as “awa sake.” The association’s mission is to enhance quality, promote widespread adoption, and expand the market. Noriyoshi Nagai, the president of Nagai Shuzo, serves as the association's chairman. As of August 2024, 33 breweries are members of the association.

Summary

While sparkling sake is now widely available, it took years of research, development, marketing efforts, and technological advancements before it became a familiar part of our lives. Today, as sake gains increasing international recognition, many products are being inspired by sparkling wine. With the growing number of sake drinkers, more accessible, easy-to-drink sparkling sakes are being introduced, signaling even more innovation in the future.

Both carbonated and bottle-fermented types offer distinct advantages. Many breweries are crafting their sparkling sake with great care and attention, so we encourage you to explore and find your favorite.

References

• The Brewing Laboratory, The Brewing Laboratory Report No. 82, 1920, (Next Generation Digital Library / National Diet Library)
• 特許出願広告第二六二二號, 清酒又ハ清酒代用飲料製造法 [Patent Application No. 2622, Method for Producing Sake or Sake Substitute Beverages] (1935)
• Takao Nihei, 続・ハワイにおける日本酒の歴史 [Continued: The History of Japanese Sake in Hawaii] (Journal of the Brewing Society of Japan 80-12, 1985)
• Takao Nihei, ハワイにおける日本酒・味噌・しょう油の歴史--日本酒（その2） [The history of sake, miso and soy sauce in Hawaii - sake (part 2)] (Journal of the Brewing Society of Japan 73-6, 1978)
• Matakichi Sakakura, 清酒中小メーカーのマーケティング [Marketing for small and medium-sized sake manufacturers], (Journal of the Brewing Society of Japan 67-6,1972)
• Yasuko Hoshi, at el., 発泡清酒『すず音』の開発と商品化 [Development and commercialization of the sparkling sake “Suzune”], Journal of the Brewing Society of Japan 111-3, 2016