2024.12

Women in the Sake World: Challenges that Breweries Need to Overcome in Order to Accept a Diverse Range of Workers (1-3)

Saki Kimura | New Trends in the Sake Industry

In recent years, more companies have shifted from using the term “diversity” to the broader acronym “DEI”—Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion—to describe their initiatives and strategies. DEI represents a state where individuals of diverse genders, nationalities, and abilities collaborate in an equitable and inclusive environment.

In the SAKE Street feature “Women in the Sake World,” a three-part series, we spotlight women, a group historically marginalized within the sake industry, to examine what is necessary to build a more inclusive landscape—one where all individuals can work without barriers.

As gender diversity gains recognition globally, with more people acknowledging identities beyond the traditional male-female binary, many industries are actively addressing gender-related challenges to foster comfort and equity. However, the sake industry, steeped in tradition, is still on the journey toward this transformation.

In the first installment of this series, we delve into the unique challenges women face in sake brewing, drawing on insights from a survey (*) of 50 women who have worked in the field. What barriers do these women encounter as they pursue careers in sake brewing, and what steps are needed to ensure they can thrive in this industry long-term?

*The survey was conducted online from June 5th to 20th, 2024. We received 50 responses through social media, the female brewery workers' community, and other means of dissemination. The breakdown was 50% for those in charge of production and 50% for those not in charge of production.

Index

Are there few women who work in sake breweries?
Inconveniences of women working in the sake brewery
1. Physical: heavy work, cold, menstruation
Mental: sexual harassment, bias and pressure
Career plans for female brewers
To create a working environment friendly to everyone
References

Are there few women who work in sake breweries?

In the 2024 Gender Gap Index, published by the World Economic Forum, Japan ranked 118th out of 146 countries—a concerning position for a nation often regarded as a leader in education and health. Despite excelling in these areas, Japan’s scores in politics and economics remain low in gender equity areas, placing it behind even some developing nations. This has contributed to a global perception of Japan as a country still struggling to achieve gender parity.

The Gender Gap Index evaluates economic gender equality through five key indicators:

　1. The rate of female labor participation
　2. The wage gap between men and women in similar occupations
　3. The overall wage gap between men and women
　4. The proportion of women in managerial positions
　5. The proportion of women in professional and technical roles

Let’s examine how these factors play out in Japan’s sake brewing industry—a field rich in tradition but with its own unique challenges regarding gender equality.

The manufacturing sector is often viewed as a male-dominated field, and data supports this perception. According to the “2024 White Paper on Manufacturing” released by Japan’s Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, the presence of female workers in manufacturing has continued to decline over the years. While the percentage of female workers across all industries has shown a steady increase, the share of women in manufacturing has gradually fallen from 33.5% in 2002 to 30.0% in 2023, highlighting the sector's enduring gender imbalance.

The manufacturing industry is often associated with traditionally male-dominated fields like machinery, steel, electronics, and construction. However, our questionnaire for this feature reveals a different perspective within the sake brewing industry: 48% of valid responses (22 out of 46) indicated that women made up over half of the workforce at their breweries. This finding prompts us to ask: what does this signify?

Historically, women were forbidden from entering sake breweries, a rule established during the Edo period alongside the development of modern brewing techniques. Various reasons have been suggested for this prohibition, but since the end of World War II, women’s participation in sake brewing has gradually increased.

Returning to the metrics used to measure gender equality, the most recent in-depth study on female workers in sake brewing is Koji Kihara’s “Changes in the Employment Structure and Production Efficiency in the Sake Brewing Industry (in Japanese),” published in 2002. This research remains a key resource for understanding gender dynamics and workforce trends within the industry (We contacted the professor in question to coincide with this feature, but received a reply saying that no new surveys had been conducted).

Female ratio of brewing staff by job type in 1998BY

	Men	Women	Women ratio
Toji	142	0	0%
Toji assistant	20	0	0%
Kashira	88	0	0%
Production management	23	10	43%
Koji leader	78	4	5%
Shubo leader	68	3	4%
Moromi	44	2	5%
Press leader	54	1	2%
Niban (Kashira’s assistant)	10	1	10%
Steam leader	82	2	2%
Assistant	41	4	10%
Brewer	204	76	37%
Rice polishing leader	14	0	0%
Rice polisher	26	1	4%
Food service	1	44	4400%
Total	895	148	17%

Created by SAKE Street based on Table 5 “Distribution of Sake Brewing Personnel by Manufacturing Scale and Job Type” in Kihara Koji's “Changes in Employment Structure and Production Efficiency in the Sake Brewing Industry”

This data reveals a stark contrast with the questionnaire responses, indicating that female employees in the sake brewing industry constitute only 17% of the workforce. This discrepancy may be due to the limited sample size (50 respondents) in the questionnaire, though it is also plausible that female representation has grown over the 25 years since 1998.

Additionally, the data highlights that women are primarily employed in support roles, such as assistant brewers or in non-brewing positions like food preparation. In contrast, female representation in senior roles, such as toji (master brewer), kashira, and koji leader, remains notably low. While this situation may have improved in recent years, these roles are still largely male-dominated.

Examining the wage gap, the disparities are similarly significant. In equivalent positions, women earn a maximum of 57% of what their male counterparts receive. According to the “2024 White Paper on Manufacturing,” when setting men’s wages at 100, women’s wages in the manufacturing sector as a whole average 68.2% in 2023—lower than in other industries, underscoring an industry-wide challenge with gender wage inequality.

Average daily wage by gender in 1998 BY

	Men	Women	Ratio of women's daily wages to men's (when men are set at 100)
Toji	21,570	N/D	N/D
Toji assistant	17,350	N/D	N/D
Kashira	15,413	N/D	N/D
Production management	14,634	8,369	57%
Koji leader	14,259	10,950	77%
Shubo leader	13,675	9,285	68%
Moromi	14,066	8,940	64%
Press leader	13,401	9,174	68%
Niban (Kashira’s assistant)	11,585	7,090	61%
Steam leader	12,980	9,097	70%
Assistant	11,924	9,646	81%
Brewer	11,398	7,622	67%
Rice polishing leader	13,831	N/D	N/D
Rice polisher	11,844	7,709	65%
Food service	10,000	7,360	74%
Avg.	14,530	7,818	54%

Created by SAKE Street based on Table 8 “Average daily cash salary of brewing personnel by scale of production and job type” in Kihara Koji's “Changes in Employment Structure and Production Efficiency in the Sake Brewing Industry”

Next, we examine the representation of women in management positions. In seeking the latest data on women in leadership roles, we interviewed the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (as of October 2023). However, they confirmed that they do not conduct surveys tracking female representation in management. Consequently, current figures on female managers in sake breweries remain difficult to ascertain.

To bridge this gap, SAKE Street has compiled a list of sake breweries with female owners (representatives) and toji (master brewers), providing an approximate measure of the “percentage of companies with female executives” as an alternative indicator for management roles. If you know of other breweries led by women, please reach out to the SAKE Street editorial team. We plan to update this list regularly to ensure the most accurate representation possible.

Sake brewery where the owner (representative) or toji is a woman

Brewery	Brand	Prefecture	Owner	Toji
Nihon Seishu	Chitosetsuru	Hokkaido		●
Tsukinowa Sake Brewery	Tsukinowa	Iwate		●
Shiwa Shuzoten	Shisora, Hiroki	Iwate		●
Kawakei Shoten	Koganesawa	Miyagi		●
Niizawa Sake Brewery	Hakurakusei	Miyagi		●
Otokoyama Honten	Soutenden	Miyagi		●
Ryozeki Shuzo	Ryozeki	Akita		●
Kitanohana Sake Brewery	Kitanohana	Fukushima		●
Hanaharu Shuzo	Hanaharu	Fukushima		●
Tsurunoe Shuzo	Aizu Chujo	Fukushima		●
Sasanokawa Shuzo	Sasanokawa	Fukushima		●
Daitengu Shuzo	Daitengu	Fukushima		●
Yuki Shuzo	Musubi Yui	Ibaraki		●
Inaba Shuzo	Minanogawa	Ibaraki		●
Tomikawa Shuzoten	Chuai	Tochigi		●
Sagara Shuzo	Asahi Sakae	Tochigi		●
Machida Shuzojo	Machida Shuzo	Gunma		●
Saitama Sato Shuzoten	Ogose Bairin	Saitama		●
Asahitsuru	Asahitsuru	Chiba		●
Inahana Shuzo	Inahana	Chiba	●
Ayumasamune Shuzo	Ayumasamune	Niigata		●
Hasegawa Shuzo	Echigo Secchubai	Niigata	●
Morohashi Shuzo	Echigo Kagetora	Niigata	●
Takachiyo Shuzo	Takachiyo	Niigata	●
Matsunoi Shuzojo	Matsunoi	Niigata	●
Tanaka Shuzojo	Notaka	Niigata	●
Ishizuka Shuzo	Himenoi	Niigata	●
Mikunihare Shuzo	Maboroshi no Taki	Toyama		●
Tsuruno Shuzoten	Taniizumi	Ishikawa		●
Mioya Brewery	Yuho	Ishikawa	●
Yoshida Brewery	Hakuryu	Fukui	●	●
Toda Shuzo	Daiyagiku	Nagano	●
Wakabayashi Jozo	Tsukiyoshino	Nagano		●
Koten Shuzo	Koten	Nagano		●
Ichinoya	Ryusuisen	Nagano		●
Ozawa Shuzojo	19	Nagano		●
Okazaki Shuzo	Shinshu Kirei	Nagano		●
Shusen Kurano	Kawanakajima	Nagano		●
Otsuka Shuzo	Asamadake	Nagano		●
Daisekkei Sake Manufacture	Daisekkei	Nagano	●
Takasawa Shuzo	Toyoka	Nagano		●
Yukawa Sake Brewery	Jurokudai Kuroemon, Kisoji	Nagano	●
Shiraki Brewery	Daruma Masamune	Gifu	●
Kaba Sake Brewery	Shiromayumi	Gifu	●
Watanabe Shuzojo	Shiromayumi	Gifu		●
Hamamatsu Shuzo	Shussejo	Shizuoka		●
Shibata Shuzojo	Konotsukasa	Aichi		●
Sawada Shuzo	Hakuro	Aichi	●
Kinginka Shuzo	Kinginka	Aichi		●
Hayashi Honten	Hyakujuro	Gifu	●
Moriki Shuzojo	Rumiko no sake	Mie		●
Wakaebisu Sake Brewery	Wakaebisu	Mie	●
Hirai Shoten	Asajio	Shiga		●
Mukai Shuzo	Ine Mankai	Kyoto		●
Tanzan Shuzo	Tanzan	Kyoto	●
Towa Shuzo	Fukuchi Sanman-nisengoku	Kyoto		●
Ikeda Shuzo	Ikekumo	Kyoto		●
Shotoku Shuzo	Shotoku	Kyoto		●
Nadagiku Sake Brewery	Nadagiku	Hyogo	●	●
Ozeki	Ozeki	Hyogo	●
Umenoyado Brewery	Umenoyado	Nara	●
Yucho Shuzo	Kaze no mori	Nara		●
Kawai Shuzo	Shusseotoko	Nara	●	●
Katsuragi Shuzo	Hyakurakumon	Nara	●	●
Yoshimura Hideo Shoten	Kurumazaka	Wakayama		●
Takagaki Shuzo	Ryujinmaru	Wakayama		●
Otani Shuzo	Takaisami	Tottori	●
Inada Honten	Inadahime	Tottori	●
Asahi Shuzo	Juji Asahi	Shimane		●
Ichinomiya Shuzo	Iwami Ginzan	Shimane		●
Tsuji Honten	Gozenshu	Okayama		●
Imada Shuzo Honten	Fukucho	Hiroshima	●	●
Shintani Shuzo	Wakamusume	Yamaguchi		●
Hatsumomiji	Harada	Yamaguchi		●
Yachiyo Shuzo	Yachiyo	Yamaguchi		●
Honke Matsuura Shuzo	Narutotai	Tokushima		●
Shodoshima Shuzo	Morikuni	Kagawa	●
Yamanokotobuki Shuzo	Yamanokotobuki	Fukuoka	●
Wakanami Shuzo	Wakanami	Fukuoka		●
Koimari Shuzo	Saki	Saga	●
Saga Shuzo	Saga	Saga	●
Inoue Shuzo	Kakunoi	Oita	●	●

Toji also includes the person in charge of production. With the cooperation of: Naoko Yukawa, the owner of Yukawa Shuzoten in Nagano Prefecture, Yuki Hata, a special assistant professor at the Niigata University Sake Research Center, and Hiroshi Yamamoto (Qootaro)

In Japan, there are approximately 1,500 licensed sake breweries, with around 1,100 actively producing sake today. Of these, about 115 are led by women, accounting for roughly 7% to 10% of the total.

According to the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare's “2022 Basic Survey on Employment Equality,” 29.7% of companies in the manufacturing industry have female executives, with this figure exceeding 30% among small companies with fewer than 100 employees. Even accounting for possible female executives beyond brewery owners and chief brewers, it appears that the representation of women in executive positions at sake breweries remains comparatively low.

To address this imbalance, it is essential for industry organizations, such as unions, to take the lead in assessing the workforce distribution within sake breweries. By gathering data on employee numbers by role, the proportion of female to male employees in both regular and non-regular positions, the percentage of female managers and executives, and wage disparities, these organizations can help visualize the current situation. Such transparency would pave the way for necessary improvements and support the industry’s progression toward gender equality.

Inconveniences of women working in the sake brewery

On the other hand, as the questionnaire responses indicate, the most important thing is not to have an equal number of men and women. Instead, the focus should be on creating a workplace where women feel comfortable and supported in pursuing careers in sake brewing.

Historically, the sake brewing industry has been closed off to women, and many older breweries are not equipped to accommodate female workers. Based on the questionnaire responses, we explore some of the physical and mental health challenges women encounter in these environments, aiming to highlight specific areas where changes could foster a more inclusive and supportive work setting.

Physical: heavy work, cold, menstruation

The most frequently voiced concern among female workers is the physical intensity of certain tasks. Specific activities, such as washing rice, working in the koji room, stirring during the fermentation process, and handling large machinery, pose significant physical demands.

"Shaking a basket with over 10 kg of rice to drain the water during the washing process is quite tough."

"The standard unit sizes are large, such as 30 kg rice bags. If not for this, I think it would be manageable work for both men and women."

"Opening valves that men have tightened to the maximum can be challenging on my own."

"The lids on the yabuta are not only heavy but also wide, making them hard to open. After removing just a few, I lose grip strength almost entirely."

Another common concern, particularly for those with lower muscle mass, is the discomfort caused by the cold temperatures in breweries, which can make it difficult to stay warm. Additionally, several challenges related to brewery environments traditionally designed with only men in mind were noted:

"There are no women’s toilets or changing rooms."

"During my period, it was difficult to change sanitary products, and at times, I had to wait until I got home."

“When working in the koji room, men can take off their clothes, but women can't.”

"The height of tables and other surfaces in the koji room is slightly too high, leading to awkward working positions."

Mental: sexual harassment, bias and pressure

Sexual harassment is increasingly scrutinized in modern society, and many companies are particularly vigilant within their own workplaces. However, survey responses reveal instances where individuals experienced discomfort due to inappropriate behavior from customers or business partners. This indicates a need for greater awareness across all sectors of the sake community, including sake enthusiasts.

"It’s not within the company, but I feel that sexual harassment is almost normalized as a business practice with clients."

"It’s frustrating to be labeled as the president’s mistress or girlfriend simply because I’m a woman who isn’t a relative."

"I’m the brewery owner, but at events, people often assume I’m a part-time worker and ignore me. On the other hand, when a male part-timer stands there, customers frequently ask, ‘Are you the owner?’ It’s just absurd."

"Even as a joke, it was painful to hear comments like, ‘If you want to be a toji (or owner), so-and-so’s place is looking for a wife.’"

There also seem to be lingering traces of outdated, patriarchal attitudes in the industry.

"I’ve been unfairly accused of ‘being slow at work because I’m a woman.’"

"I’m often expected to create ‘sake that only a woman can make.’ I believe that taste and quality shouldn’t be tied to gender."

“At times, only female employees were expected to assist with food distribution. Structurally, the tendency to assign gender-based roles can be challenging to avoid, especially when women with traditional views are present in key positions within sake breweries.”

These comments highlight that creating a more supportive work environment for women will also require shifts in mindset among women themselves.

Additionally, some respondents mentioned the mental burden stemming from physical disadvantages, such as:

"I feel guilty for putting extra strain on the men."

"I worry that asking for help might reinforce the stereotype, ‘this is why women…,’ making it hard to ask male colleagues for assistance."

On a positive note, three out of the 50 respondents reported, “There’s nothing particularly inconvenient just because I’m a woman,” indicating that some women do not feel disadvantaged in their roles.

Career plans for female brewers

Across many industries, women are often perceived as having a higher likelihood of career interruptions due to marriage, childbirth, and childcare. This perception can sometimes be a disadvantage in hiring and employment. Responses to the questionnaire included the following comments from both employers and employees:

Employer: “Our brewery is largely non-mechanized, and conditions in the brewing room can be too cold or as hot as a sauna in the koji room, making it dangerous for pregnant women. Although I believe tasks like fermentation management are well-suited to women, when hiring is limited, I wonder if it makes more sense to prioritize men for frontline roles.”

Employee: “At some breweries I applied to, I was either turned down for interviews due to being a woman or told the limited roles available to women in brewing were already filled. While I understand that this might be due to the brewery's constraints, it’s disappointing that this mindset persists in an industry where other sectors have already moved past such limitations.”

On the other hand, when asked about the possibility of continuing to work at a sake brewery during pregnancy and childbirth, about half of the respondents believed it was feasible, provided the work was unrelated to the brewing process.

A significant reason why it is challenging for women to work in a sake brewery lies in the difficulty of maintaining employment during life transitions, such as pregnancy and childbirth. The physical demands of lifting heavy objects and working in areas with extreme temperature variations pose considerable risks for pregnant women. Ideally, women could continue working in less physically demanding roles, such as in the office or bottling, with the flexibility to return to production tasks as their condition allows. This adaptability would create a more supportive and sustainable work environment for women in the industry.

However, some survey responses highlighted challenges in seeking alternative roles:

“I wanted to transition to a more office-based position, but at small and medium-sized sake breweries, where roles are limited, that option simply wasn’t available.”

Such comments reflect the difficulties of working in the sake industry, where many breweries are small to medium-sized companies with constrained staffing flexibility.

Additionally, respondents who had not yet experienced marriage or childbirth expressed concerns, such as:

"I'm at an age where I'm considering marriage and children, but I haven’t met any colleagues in production roles who have been pregnant, so I would like to hear from those who have experienced it."

"Since we don’t have any career models in our company who continued working after pregnancy and childbirth, we feel it’s up to us to pave the way for future employees to work with confidence."

These comments reveal the uncertainty and challenges that arise when there are no visible role models nearby. Sharing interviews with those who have firsthand experience could be a valuable step in making the industry more accessible for women. If any sake brewers who have managed careers through pregnancy and childbirth are willing to share their stories, we invite them to contact SAKE Street.

Furthermore, some respondents raised concerns about career impacts, such as:

"Not being able to drink alcohol during pregnancy and nursing might be a setback for a career in sake brewing."

To create a working environment friendly to everyone

So, what does a "female-friendly sake brewery" look like in practice? In our survey, we asked respondents to share the measures their breweries have implemented and to suggest ideas for creating a more supportive work environment for women in the industry.

Solutions for Physical Challenges

Introduction of machinery
"We use conveyors and air chutes for tasks that require heavy lifting."

Weight reduction strategies
"Instead of using traditional tameshioke (large handled buckets with an 18L capacity and a weight of around 3 kg), we use smaller, easy-to-carry buckets for transporting water, koji, and moromi."

Addressing height differences
"Platforms are placed throughout the brewery, and rakes are available in areas that are out of reach, making it easier to access items stored up high."

Task sharing
"Men and women work in pairs. For example, during rice washing, the men handle the washing while the women manage the timing."

Solutions for Reducing Mental Strain

Improving facilities
"Previously, there were few women’s restrooms since we didn’t have female production staff, but recently, we added more. As the number of female employees grows, we make it a priority to address any inconveniences as they arise."

"It would be great to have an easy-to-access changing area for putting on and taking off clothes before and after entering the koji room. Also, our rest area for naps is shared by both genders, with long benches to lie on. It would be more comfortable if we had separate rooms for men and women with proper resting spaces."

Evaluating individuals, not gender
"There’s a strong stereotype that ‘women are weak’ or ‘women lack strength.’ However, there are women who can handle physical tasks just as well as men."

"While some heavy tasks may require support, it’s more fulfilling to be entrusted with tasks equally, regardless of gender. It feels limiting when tasks are divided, with women assigned to cleaning or laundry just because they’re female."

Mutual consideration
"There’s a supportive atmosphere where tasks requiring extra strength are done by men or tackled together. I feel people are mindful of each other, and to maintain this environment, I make sure to express my gratitude when others help me with tasks I can’t manage. Rather than taking it for granted, I try to show my intention to improve. Additionally, I compensate by excelling in other tasks I’m responsible for."

For Post-Pregnancy and Post-Childbirth Employment

Flexible working hours and task structures
"Instead of a rigid ‘8:00 to 17:00 with a one-hour break,’ why not offer options like ‘8:00 to 12:00 with a 30-minute break’ or ‘13:00 to 17:00 with a 30-minute break’? Recently, some companies have set up on-site childcare facilities. For smaller sake breweries that can’t afford this, it might be beneficial to establish daycare centers on a regional basis through unions or local collaborations."

Work experience programs
"While not directly related to gender, a brewery work experience program could be helpful. If people working in urban areas could occasionally come to work at a brewery, this could match breweries needing extra help with those interested in lending a hand."

Integrating IT for flexibility
"Many sake brewing roles seem to require physical presence, whether it’s working on the production floor, using fixed PCs, or receiving orders via fax from retailers. By adopting IT solutions, such as remote management systems and cloud services, we could increase flexibility in employment arrangements."

Utilizing apps for temporary work opportunities

"For tasks that even student part-timers can handle, like analysis or scraping off sake lees, apps for temporary work could provide a way to bring in casual help and make working at a brewery more accessible to a wider range of people."

There were many additional insights shared, but I’d like to close with a comment that encapsulates the essence of these efforts:

"A neighboring sake brewery revised its work methods and workflows to create a more supportive environment for women as their numbers increased. Through these changes, they discovered that a workplace designed to be accessible for women was also more accommodating for men and older workers. They concluded that making work easier should be an ongoing effort at individual, team, and company levels. The enjoyment of continuously improving the workplace for everyone may be the true appeal of hands-on work."

In this survey, several respondents expressed that they felt satisfaction in being treated equally to their male colleagues, while feeling uncomfortable when they received special considerations. Women who wish to work in sake breweries are not seeking "special treatment" but rather aspire to "be able to do the same tasks as men."

The "E" in DEI stands for "Equity," which is distinct from "Equality." As illustrated in the diagram below, equality means providing the same conditions for everyone. In contrast, equity involves tailoring conditions to each individual’s needs to create a truly level playing field.

In this article, we have focused on the sake brewery—the heart of sake production—and explored the challenges faced by women in this environment.

In the next article, we will examine the relationship between sake and women from the perspectives of retail, marketing, and promotional activities.