What is “Traditional Sake Making”, Recently Added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage?

On December 5th, during the Intergovernmental Committee meeting held in Asuncion, Paraguay, “Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan” was officially recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Leading up to this decision, in November, the evaluation body’s recommendation for registration sparked optimism within Japan’s sake industry and media, with many expressing hopes that this recognition would serve as a significant catalyst for the global spread of sake.

However, the designation as Intangible Cultural Heritage brings certain complexities. For instance, its use in commercial advertising is restricted, and the precise definition of “traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making” remains unclear to some, prompting questions such as, “What types of sake are included?”

So, what exactly does traditional sake making encompass, and what implications might this registration have for expanding sake’s presence overseas?

In this article, we’ll explore these questions further, including insights from an interview with the Agency for Cultural Affairs, and highlight key considerations for leveraging UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in promotional contexts.

What is UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage?

The UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage program, overseen by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO), often leads to confusion with UNESCO World Heritage Sites. While World Heritage encompasses both “cultural heritage” and “natural heritage,” the concept of intangible cultural heritage is fundamentally distinct.

“World Heritage sites refer to tangible cultural assets, such as natural landmarks or archaeological sites, whereas intangible cultural heritage pertains to elements without physical form—skills, traditions, knowledge, and events,” explained Taiki Shimizu, a specialist from Japan's Agency for Cultural Affairs. “World Heritage sites are evaluated based on their outstanding universal value, while intangible cultural heritage is not assessed on its value. Instead, the focus is on safeguarding these elements as heritage to foster respect for and deepen understanding of cultural diversity.”

It is crucial to recognize that these programs stem from separate international conventions. The World Heritage program is based on the 1972 Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage, while Intangible Cultural Heritage follows the 2003 Convention for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage. This fundamental distinction highlights their differing purposes and criteria.

Not a registration of sake, but a technique registration

To clarify, UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage focuses on elements that have no physical form. Therefore, this registration does not apply to sake or shochu as products, which are tangible, but rather to the intangible sake brewing techniques that underpin their creation.

For a cultural element to qualify as Intangible Cultural Heritage, it must fall into one of the following five categories:

1. 　Oral traditions and expressions, including language as a vehicle of intangible cultural heritage
2. 　Performing arts
3. 　Social practices, rituals, and festive events
4. 　Knowledge and practices concerning nature and the universe
5. 　Traditional craftsmanship

Traditional sake brewing primarily aligns with category 5, traditional craftsmanship, as it preserves unique brewing methods and artisanal techniques passed down through generations. However, it is also considered to align with category 3, social practices, rituals, and festive events. This perspective highlights its cultural and social significance, as sake brewing has long played a vital role in Japanese celebrations, rituals, and community events.

The reviewing organization assesses whether the following conditions are met for UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage registration:

• 　Listed on the national protection list
• 　Appropriate protection measures are being implemented in the country
• 　Agreement has been reached among all involved parties
• 　The content contributes to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

According to Shimizu, “The traditional sake brewing method was registered as a Japanese intangible cultural asset in December 2021. This ensured it met the conditions of being ‘listed on the national protection list’ and ‘appropriate protection measures being taken in the country’.”

In Japan, cultural elements can also be recognized as “Intangible Cultural Properties” under the Law for the Protection of Cultural Properties, which may serve as a prerequisite for UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage registration. It is essential to note that while both are referred to as “intangible culture”, they are distinct concepts with separate frameworks and objectives.

So, what is “traditional sake making”?

The traditional sake brewing method, recognized as a Japanese intangible cultural property in 2021, encompasses the production methods for sake, shochu, awamori, mirin, and similar beverages. It includes the following techniques:

1. Pre-processing the ingredients to make them suitable for sake brewing.
　1-1. Assessing the state of the ingredients to be used for koji, and adjusting the moisture content by hand.
　1-2. Steaming.

2. To make koji mold suitable for sake brewing.
　2-1. The ingredients used to make koji must be rice or barley.
　2-2. The koji mold used must be a traditional Aspergillus mold.
　2-3. A wooden tray, wooden box, or other device with a similar function must be used.
　2-4. The growth of the koji mold must be monitored and the koji production process must be managed manually.

3. Ferment the moromi to achieve the desired sake quality.
　3-1. Fermentation should be carried out using koji and a parallel multiple fermentation process.
　3-2. No other ingredients should be added except water.
　3-3. The state of the moromi should be assessed and fermentation managed by hand.

The standards for “traditional sake making”, as recognized by UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage, mirror those established when it was registered as a Japanese intangible cultural asset. However, Mr. Shimizu cautions, “This does not set a standard for whether or not individual products can be considered traditional.” For example, item 2-3, “A wooden tray, wooden box, or other device with a similar function must be used,” refers broadly to the equipment used in koji production. It emphasizes regulating temperature and moisture content through natural evaporation and heat dissipation, similar to the role of wooden lids and boxes. However, this does not suggest any hierarchy of equipment, such as stating, “Sake made using koji tray (koji buta) is superior to sake made with automated koji-making machines.”

Similarly, the requirement that “no other ingredients should be added except water” is not a judgment on modern production methods. Rather, it highlights historically significant techniques and elements that deserve protection and preservation as “traditional sake making”. This is not intended to exclude other practices, such as adding brewing alcohol to sake.

"Modern innovations, such as thermal tanks and automated temperature control systems, owe their existence to the foundational techniques preserved and passed down through generations," Shimizu emphasizes. “The key point of this registration is to protect these traditional techniques and ensure they are passed onto the next generation.”

In other words, while registered intangible cultural properties and UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage define what is traditional, they do not impose judgments or limits on what is not traditional.

Registration is a milestone, not the goal

Since “Washoku: Traditional Dietary Cultures of the Japanese” was registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013, Japanese cuisine has gained even greater popularity worldwide. Similarly, this new recognition of traditional sake brewing techniques is expected to be utilized for promotional purposes, particularly in exporting sake. However, there are important considerations to keep in mind when doing so.

As Shimizu explains, “I’ve said this before, but what has been registered is the technology of sake brewing, not any particular product. To begin with, UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage is not about recognizing something as ‘excellent.’ This program does not evaluate cultures as superior or inferior; its goal is to foster understanding and respect for cultural diversity.”

Therefore, it would be inappropriate to use this recognition to make claims such as, “Japanese sake is better than beer or wine because it is registered by UNESCO” or “UNESCO has acknowledged Japan as the origin of parallel multiple fermentation techniques.” In fact, such assertions of superiority could jeopardize the registration itself, as UNESCO’s evaluation process explicitly avoids cultural comparisons.

Additionally, UNESCO’s Operational Guidelines for Intangible Cultural Heritage emphasize that commercial abuse should be avoided. There has even been a case where “French Gastronomy” faced warnings about potential removal from the list due to excessive promotional activities. While commercial use of a registered heritage is not entirely prohibited, it is crucial to remain aligned with the project’s core purpose: protecting and preserving cultural heritage. Misusing the recognition for purely commercial gain risks straying from this purpose and could lead to negative consequences.

Shimizu further emphasizes that “registration as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage is not the end.”

“Just as the registration of Japanese food brought global attention to Japanese food culture, this recognition should serve as an opportunity to highlight the excellence of traditional Japanese sake brewing. The Agency for Cultural Affairs does not intend to stop at the registration itself; we will continue to share this information both domestically and internationally. This registration is not only about preserving and utilizing traditional techniques but also about showcasing the appeal of Japanese sake to the world.”

This recognition is expected to significantly enhance awareness and appreciation of sake. However, rather than assuming that “sake will sell simply because it has been registered by UNESCO,” it is essential to properly understand the significance of the registration and use it thoughtfully and appropriately.